As I did my research about where to go for a kind of casual, bistro‑style dining experience, Ambos showed up on my radar. I don’t go to restaurants as a clear strategy just because a chef is famous or has been on TV. What matters is the cookery, not the fame. You could be so well known yet so far from being able even to scramble an egg — this is the sort of world we live in now, isn’t it? You can become a hit just for saying something on TikTok and having it go viral. Woo hoo, you made it!
No. I am not of this generation. I come from one of discipline, motivation, and effort due to a professional dance career, which has been instilled from a young age. There was no social media back then! Anything else just feels very wrong to me. There is, however, no choice but to roll with the times. I just hope the next generation of chefs knows how to actually cook. Instagram and TikTok show no signs of going anywhere.
Digging into Ambos a little further, I saw that Top Chef in France had something to do with it. This is not the reason I visited, may I add. I was, in fact, focusing on the 6th and the 7th, searching for a relaxed place to have my lunch. Simple as that. Ambos seemed to fit the bill.
Upon entering, I was seated at the small chef’s table — literally right in front of the kitchen and the chefs, perhaps too close for comfort, as I wanted to take notes and not interact that much. I did my Brit and kept quiet about it, not making a fuss; it was too late to ask to move.
I see this crop up a lot: tasting menus and à la carte. For a restaurant such as this, I do think that à la carte is the best‑suited choice, especially for lunch. Tastes have changed — people would prefer maybe two or three courses maximum during their spare hours. Even if you have more time, this trend of 5+ courses is not as attractive these days. I’m not saying it should be scrapped, because there is always someone out there who it will appeal to. I just don’t think it is the ace card. À la carte reigns supreme.
We start with a plantain cracker, with a little hint of spice and a strong plantain flavour. I got the impression they were aiming for a star, and immediately I found myself thinking: what is really the intention here? How old is the restaurant? Some more research on my part was probably necessary. I saw the reference to the chef’s wife from these opening snacks, which was a nice, deliberate touch.
I chose the octopus for my starter. The mélange of flavours and textures was good; acidity was definitely present, but the chefs managed it with the right amount coming through, which is fundamental. The octopus carpaccio was prepared properly, but the size of this creation was large for a starter. That said, everything was quite delicious and worked well as a dish.
The main course wasn’t even here yet, and I was already thinking: shall I take a dessert? The answer might be no, especially as in my mind desserts are reserved for the evenings. Here, it is not a question of cost; it is a question of choice and how I am feeling. If I’m already feeling bombarded by the size of a plate, I’m more inclined to tone it down. Generally speaking, I always eat less for lunch and more for dinner.
Anyway, the monkfish arrives — I wrote in my notes “large monkfish course.” The sauce was subtle with a fresh turmeric‑like hint in it. The chef told me the ingredient, but I couldn’t pronounce it, let alone remember it! The origin could be Thai. I do see the backbone of this sauce a lot; however, it was transformed into a different version because of this particular ingredient. The monkfish itself — the middle was too opaque for my taste. I was yearning for it to have more texture, too.
What can we say about Ambos? It was interesting to try, as it always is for any new restaurant you haven’t visited yet. If they want to reach the next level, they perhaps need to refine their ideas even further and really nail those flavours. Don’t ask me why, but they are not where they want to be just yet…
